The big attraction here is the small but private pebble beach, but fans of literature will be enthralled. Bruce Chatwin stayed here in the winter of 1985; you can go on a ravishing hike and climb the four miles (six kilometres) to Exohori, where his ashes are buried.

Patrick Leigh Fermor was another frequent visitor and loved the place so much he bought the plot next door – you can visit his house, featured in the film Before Midnight, by prior arrangement. Greek poets and painters were regular patrons and the family that owns the hotel are a never-ending source of gossipy anecdotes.

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